ISSUE JULY 2007

NV Brut – Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru           87/100 now+

It's relatively rare to see first tier house Champagne with noticeable reduction and it's strong enough to knock down the expressiveness of the nose though the flavors are pure, crisp and support by ample effervescence on the citrus-infused finish. In sum, a curious showing for a wine that normally shows much better.

NV Brut – Les Aventures Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru      93/100 now+

(Les Aventures is a specific parcel and not the name of a cuvée located in Chouilly; this bottling is a blend from the 1990, 1995 and 1996 vintages and interestingly, rather than the usual wire cage securing the cork, there is an intricate one fashioned from twine). This is extremely yeasty on the nose but unlike many examples that run toward the outermost edges of yeastiness, there are absolutely no oxidative elements present and I particularly like the rich, intense and mouth coating quality of the flavours. There is sufficient age where the finish is broader and rounder with less crispness than, for example, the '96 Blanc de Blancs but the additional age shows up in the added depth. A wonderful effort that could be drunk now or held for up to another decade.

1996 Brut – Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru         93/100   2010+

(from Chouilly). A very fine bead greets the eye of this still tight but ultra pure and moderately yeasty nose that offers up reluctant notes of citrus and spiced white flowers aromas that give way to somewhat austere, precise and racy middle weight flavours that possess good concentration and plenty of finishing energy on the bone dry finish. This will easily last another twenty years and will need at least 5 to 7 just to fill out and relax as it, like many ‘96s, still displays quite a bit of underlying tension. Great potential but patience required.

1999 Brut - Cuvée Gentilhomme Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru   90/100    now+

(from Chouilly). In contrast to the superb '96 version, I found the '99 to be overtly fruity and less complex on both the nose and the palate and while there is reasonably good midpalate density, it's not clear that the overall depth is ever going to surpass the very good threshold, particularly in light of the fact that this is already approachable. In sum, I was a bit disappointed for a top of the line cuvee.

2000 Brut Rosé               89/100     2009+

(this is quite an interesting rosé as it's 85% grand cru white with 15% pinot noir in premier cru). A distinctly fruity nose of raspberry, strawberry and floral notes with traces of red berries couples with delicious and relatively light flavors that are crisp, intense and exceptionally dry, all wrapped in a precise and racy finish. I like the crispness and energy here as well as the dryness as some rosés are a bit too sweet for my preference but I would like to see a bit more depth. TO be sure, this delivers solid quality but it's not among the very best of the genre.